Deidre in Mexico

Hola de Oaxaca Mexico.

G’Day from Mexico and wishes that the election results result in some good things for the country and people. Been here in Mexico for over a month now and settling in to the climate (cool nights, warm days), altitude (over 1600m high near the Sierra Madre mountains that run down the central region of Mexico, and settling into a different style, pace, custom, language and everything to do with that, like going to the supermarket and not having a clue what is what, spending an hour trying to make a phone call and adjusting to being in a totally different life.

I missed the Dias de Muertos, Day of the Dead celebrations on November 2nd, where families gather at the cemetery (panteon) and eat and drink and decorate the graves of loved ones due to a flight delay from NZ to Los Angeles. However here are some photos of the floral tributes and alters set up to commemorate the deceased, who are believed to return to earth for that day.

First week at a beautiful hostel/inn La Villada, high up on the hillsides of Oaxaca, a bit out of the city and with the friendliest family and workers I have ever come across. An oasis of tranquility with expansive views to the mountains ringing the city. Only permitted to speak Spanish to the father (65) who spoke English back. The grandfather, (94) was a wonderful gracious old man who spent time carefully looking at my photos, expressing a desire to come to Australia and correcting or offering words in order for me to speak. We had several talks daily and he is a real treasure.
Two brothers (sons) mostly run the business and include guests in many of the traditional family events, such as the baptism of a baby daughter. The girls who cook and clean, Deborah, Rebecca and daughter Nanette and older helper Lley Lley, are so friendly and we had to sit on the left over party balloons and break them amidst much laughter.
Josh from Oregon, Leonie from Perth WA are in the kitchen, learning how to make Aztec Soup.
Josh and I went to the biggest local market for fruit veg and meat, he bought a comal, the traditional plate for cooking tortillas and a brazier to take back to Oregon.

My friend Paul whom I have been corresponding with for a year since we all met him in Oaxaca, is a bit surprised that my speaking and listening is nowhere up to scratch with writing emails but we are managing to get buy OK. He arranged a beautiful 6 course dinner in a private dining room, we were the only guests along with a girl from Brisbane I got friendly with at the hostel and she came too. Such exquisite dishes and probably the best meal of my life.
I also had another initiation into the potency of Mezcal and of course over here, the idea of standard drinks is a foreign concept.

I found a little apartment right in the historical centre, near the botanical garden, near the Santo Domingo church, close to a little organic market on Fridays and Saturdays and an alternative cinema, El Pochote a block or two away. It is in a leafy shady garden with flowers similar to poinsettias, called bueno noche) geraniums and impatiens and lots of palms and cacti. It has a small kitchen, gas hotplates, no oven, a large glass topped table in the living area with 2 dining chairs, no sofa, and a bedroom separated by folding louvre doors, plus a very small bathroom. It is amazingly quiet and on Sundays when I go out for a walk in the streets cannot believe the noise of the city compared to my street, so it features some of the things that are most important to me, restful, tranquil and nearby the gardens that hopefully are doing some of the air purifying for the fuming trucks and cars that exist in Mexico. I have landed in a good spot, here seems safe, people are friendly and its very tidy. There is a homoeopathic practice around the corner, a corner shop, local supermarket and laundry a few steps away. It is not far from the old aquaduct that used to carry water from the hills of San Felipe to the city centre.

A bit of an adjustment being here, but there are enough fabric shops to restore peace on a ‘sad day’. Even a Mexican woman was asking me questions about where to look for fabrics I spent so long in the shop.

There are nice people here at the apartments, mostly women so far, one man from Philadelphia, and a handyman called Melicio.

I did 4 days of spanish lessons at a school and now working with language at home and practice is mostly all day every day because not too many people are speaking English.
It is getting closer to Xmas and this place is full of festivities, constantly. Street parades, bands in the town square, kids dancing and in parades for end of year school. Anyway, will put some photos of Oaxaca and surrounding areas. Enjoy, Deidre

Labels: First info from Oaxaca Dec 2007