Deidre in Mexico

2008-03-29T12:55:00.000-07:00

Hi from CANCUN down the southern tip of mexico. I am now living down here in this place of great beauty with the Carribean Sea and white sands, and of great ugliness with the development, influences from the USA with fast food outlets, colonisation of the views of the ocean and acess to the beach by enormous hotels and a general atmosphere of hedonism. Uni students flock here for their spring break and the effects for the rest of us females as these puerile and disrespectful visitors shamelessly debauch themselves, is that we are also included in the same category. I will wait till end of April when I am due to take a short trip out of Mexico (possibly Cuba) and then think about moving on.
The positive things are, there are some places or oases of calm, a hostel here or there, a leafy garden, some outlying suburbs with real people doing real things, and when you can get to it, the ocean. I went for a first scuba dive on Cozumel Island and been over to Isla Mujeres. I have a little apartment which is fresh and airy and light, on the top floor and gets sea breezes. Much English is spoken here, so speaking less Spanish.
The new Calenda Oaxaca restuarant is a haven on beauty in that garish and sensually assaulting zone of the hotel region. Hope you are all well, Deidre

2008-01-18T16:26:00.000-08:00

January 19th.

Here are some more photos from Oaxaca. It is nearly 3 months since I arrived and I am more settled here. Some significant things that have happened are:
Language is improved and I can shop and eat and talk with more confidence
I have joined the lending library and have access to books and magazines in both english and spanish
Regularly attend a language exchange on Saturday mornings where native spanish and english speakers are paired up and talk for one hour in each language
Go regularly to the alternative cinema nearby to watch films from various countries and to learn the language. When there are films from the United States it is a great opportunity to pick up swear words from the spanish subtitles
Spent new years eve dancing to a great band in the zocalo (town square) with an argentinian surf life saver who has been living in Sydney for 17years. He is riding an old Yamaha motorbike from USA (los estados unidos) to argentina and has a great blog site – here is the link if you are interested in tales of high adventure
Been out dancing a couple of times and getting a few salsa moves organised
Have eaten some Oaxacan specialties, beautiful icecreams and fruits
Cooked my first tortillas at home
Shared a rosca with Paul, the traditional circular bread eaten for the Tres Magos (3 wise men) celebration on Jan 6th that marks the completion of the Xmas cycle of celebrations. It has little plastic figures hidden inside and if you get one, you are obliged to hold a fiesta on Feb 2nd. I got one first piece, and then another, but since I have so far, only 3 friends, it should not be such a big event.
The compound that my apartment is located in is quite funky, my apartment is next to some unfinished construction with lots of rubble, but the garden is lovely, the birds wake me up in the mornings and it is a little silent retreat from the busy city, even though it is right in the centre
I am increasing my ability to speak and can speak in the present and occasionally in the past tense
A range of photos were accidentally deleted from my camera and now remain
as memories. The orchestra playing in the zocalo was amazing and lots of fun with a range of conductors taking turns conducting

December 27 2007

2007-12-27T11:21:00.000-08:00

These photos are of my little apartment and its garden, with the exception of the white building which is typical of the architecture here, beautiful and there is a flat slab of a water feature, its the library for stamp collections. Paul and I are out to dinner cooked by one of his friends, a chef.

Hi, a few more photos of Mexico. Happy Xmas and wishes for a wonderful New Year, Deidre

One Year and More Later Back in Mexico

2007-12-10T15:45:00.000-08:00

Hola de Oaxaca Mexico.

G’Day from Mexico and wishes that the election results result in some good things for the country and people. Been here in Mexico for over a month now and settling in to the climate (cool nights, warm days), altitude (over 1600m high near the Sierra Madre mountains that run down the central region of Mexico, and settling into a different style, pace, custom, language and everything to do with that, like going to the supermarket and not having a clue what is what, spending an hour trying to make a phone call and adjusting to being in a totally different life.

I missed the Dias de Muertos, Day of the Dead celebrations on November 2nd, where families gather at the cemetery (panteon) and eat and drink and decorate the graves of loved ones due to a flight delay from NZ to Los Angeles. However here are some photos of the floral tributes and alters set up to commemorate the deceased, who are believed to return to earth for that day.

First week at a beautiful hostel/inn La Villada, high up on the hillsides of Oaxaca, a bit out of the city and with the friendliest family and workers I have ever come across. An oasis of tranquility with expansive views to the mountains ringing the city. Only permitted to speak Spanish to the father (65) who spoke English back. The grandfather, (94) was a wonderful gracious old man who spent time carefully looking at my photos, expressing a desire to come to Australia and correcting or offering words in order for me to speak. We had several talks daily and he is a real treasure.
Two brothers (sons) mostly run the business and include guests in many of the traditional family events, such as the baptism of a baby daughter. The girls who cook and clean, Deborah, Rebecca and daughter Nanette and older helper Lley Lley, are so friendly and we had to sit on the left over party balloons and break them amidst much laughter.
Josh from Oregon, Leonie from Perth WA are in the kitchen, learning how to make Aztec Soup.
Josh and I went to the biggest local market for fruit veg and meat, he bought a comal, the traditional plate for cooking tortillas and a brazier to take back to Oregon.

My friend Paul whom I have been corresponding with for a year since we all met him in Oaxaca, is a bit surprised that my speaking and listening is nowhere up to scratch with writing emails but we are managing to get buy OK. He arranged a beautiful 6 course dinner in a private dining room, we were the only guests along with a girl from Brisbane I got friendly with at the hostel and she came too. Such exquisite dishes and probably the best meal of my life.
I also had another initiation into the potency of Mezcal and of course over here, the idea of standard drinks is a foreign concept.

I found a little apartment right in the historical centre, near the botanical garden, near the Santo Domingo church, close to a little organic market on Fridays and Saturdays and an alternative cinema, El Pochote a block or two away. It is in a leafy shady garden with flowers similar to poinsettias, called bueno noche) geraniums and impatiens and lots of palms and cacti. It has a small kitchen, gas hotplates, no oven, a large glass topped table in the living area with 2 dining chairs, no sofa, and a bedroom separated by folding louvre doors, plus a very small bathroom. It is amazingly quiet and on Sundays when I go out for a walk in the streets cannot believe the noise of the city compared to my street, so it features some of the things that are most important to me, restful, tranquil and nearby the gardens that hopefully are doing some of the air purifying for the fuming trucks and cars that exist in Mexico. I have landed in a good spot, here seems safe, people are friendly and its very tidy. There is a homoeopathic practice around the corner, a corner shop, local supermarket and laundry a few steps away. It is not far from the old aquaduct that used to carry water from the hills of San Felipe to the city centre.

A bit of an adjustment being here, but there are enough fabric shops to restore peace on a ‘sad day’. Even a Mexican woman was asking me questions about where to look for fabrics I spent so long in the shop.

There are nice people here at the apartments, mostly women so far, one man from Philadelphia, and a handyman called Melicio.

I did 4 days of spanish lessons at a school and now working with language at home and practice is mostly all day every day because not too many people are speaking English.
It is getting closer to Xmas and this place is full of festivities, constantly. Street parades, bands in the town square, kids dancing and in parades for end of year school. Anyway, will put some photos of Oaxaca and surrounding areas. Enjoy, Deidre

Well and truly home in Oz but photos straggling in

2006-11-11T16:12:00.000-08:00

Still adding photos now I am back home and part of me is still away in lands of warmth and mystery and antiquity. Restless dreams of more adventures! These photos are from the amazing area of Sedona, the place or vortexes (vorti?) and the folks at Arizona Uni where Samia and I presented the Telling Our Story workshop to the American Indian Studies Department. Enjoy

South Rim and the Watchtower

2006-10-01T23:40:00.000-07:00

These photos are of the watchtower built on the south rim of the Grand Canyon. It was designed by a woman architect in the 30s and is not a traditional design from the local native american people but is inspired by their buildings. Inside is this amazing multi storied healing room with sacred paintings. Outside on one of the stone walls is another example of the extensiveness of Christian cultural dominance.

Canyon South Rim

2006-10-01T23:37:00.000-07:00

2006-10-01T23:34:00.000-07:00

2006-10-01T23:19:00.000-07:00

View from the meteorite enclosure, candles and flowers and a few prayers for the family of Steve Irwin and the Grande Canyon yay!!!

Photos from Arizona

2006-10-01T23:08:00.000-07:00

Here are some photos from Arizona, we were dancing on a night out at the Fort Apache Reservation in White Mountain, an elk was in the foyer with a few other stationary wild life - no fear. We went to a large meteor crater and Samia took a little trip into outa space while we were there. I stayed firmly on earth with this cardboard cutout astronaut, but not her!

2006-09-14T21:20:00.000-07:00

Mariachis playing at Jims party at the Pascua
Yaqui reservation near Tucson Arizona

Late afternoon rain in Merida, Yucatan - coming from Hurricane Ernesto

Temple of the Sun, Palenque

Samia and Greg and others at Jims party nr Tucson

They call this music 'chicken scratchin'

2006-09-14T21:15:00.000-07:00

Aqua Azul - the beautiful blue waters in Chiapas
Mexico. Palenque with the mist still clearing after a
stormy, raining night in the jungle

The Temple of Inscriptions at Palenque Enjoying the raft trip across the river

2006-09-14T21:10:00.000-07:00

Would you turistas like to cross the river by raft?

Cowboys having coffee in San Cristobal de las Casas

A church in San Cristobal de las Casas

Narrativos in our favourite bar next to our favourite restuarant with our favourite waiter, Paul

Jesus and Ney invited us to their salsa studio, Jesus is choreographing a show for the young people

Nora and I wait for our turn for a salsa makeover

2006-09-14T21:05:00.000-07:00

Guardian of the niche in the tomb at Yagul

Inside the church nr El Tule, the biggest tree in the Americas

A trip to the Mezcal factory near Oaxaca

Another shot of the niche entrance at the tomb in Yagul

Natural dyes from cochineal and other plants used for weaving. Studio at Teotitlan de Valle, near Oaxaca

2006-09-14T20:55:00.000-07:00

Cactus radiance on near the entry to Mitla

Mitla, an ancient place

Salsa on the rooftop of the hotel where we are training

Lots of photos added now I am home in Oz.

2006-09-14T20:42:00.000-07:00

Pyramids of the Sun and the Moon at Teotihuacan, north of Mexico City

Grasshoppers for dinner, yumm. They are inside the soft taco wrappings in case you are wondering what the rest of this arrangement is.

A pilgrim carries a statue to the site of the Cathedral of the Virgin of Guadalupe, the patron saint of Mexico

In the streets of Oaxaca protesters are marching frequently. They want the governor of Oaxaca state, Ulysses Ruiz to resign. Some people have been shot and imprisoned and there is unrest everywhere. We hope that there can be some resolve soon so the everyone can be at peace.

2006-08-31T19:18:00.000-07:00

Now in Palenque, in Chiapas State in the Yucantan Peninsula of Mexico. It is one of the many archeaological sites of the Mayan people, and is amazing to be in a dense steamy jungle with masses of buildings excavated, and masses more still hidden by the jungle. Today we explored the ruins and walked into the jungle, seeing howler monkeys in the trees, hummingbirds, toucans, spiders, lizards and lovely water falls, mahogony trees being strangled by ficus, just like other places.

Yesterday I went to some water falls nearby, huge rivers and lots of cascading falls, warmish strong flowing water. At one place we took a log raft across the river, only 4 of the group of 10 or more were willing to cross the river like this.

We went out to a fire show, thought I was back in Byron, a place called El Panchan, a bit of a place for alternatives near Palenque, also heard some great music, lovely latino songs and love ballads, with carribean influence.

Tonight I go by bus to Merida down south, fly out early next morning for Arizona. Everything is going well. There was a huge storm last night and thunder like I have never heard before, not like the rolling tanks in the sky but cracking sharp and as if it was tearing through the jungle and whipping up the hills and searching for something. I was staying in a jungle lodge very close to the ruins at Palenque. What amazing constructions and use of power, labour and beliefs. Till Arizona, Deidre

Greetings from San Cristobal de las casas

2006-08-28T19:26:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone, have left Oaxaca and now in San Cristobal de las casas in Chiapas State and heading for Palenque tomorrow for a couple of nights and then down the coast. All is well, it is amazing here, Oaxaca was sad to leave, in spite of the trouble there, so many warm and polite and welcoming people. Today Went up into the hills and visited a church and saw some weavers, it is all so amazing, will add photos later. The church had the traditional shamans and rituals going on, with the facade of catholicism, it was so incredibly moving to see the candles lit in blocks of light and people attending to them, they represent offering tortillas (food) to the Gods. They regard the christian saints as their ancestors. The blue Mayan cross is so pantheistic and has beautiful meaning and is higher than all the saints in the churches. Coloured plastic flags high in the sky anchored to the steeple and fixed to sacred Saber trees, flapping in the breeze sounding like some beautiful cracking sails of a ship. Much music, some dancing and many people in the plaza. Hasta lluego, Deidre

Sunday from Oaxaca

2006-08-20T14:08:00.000-07:00

Today is a relative day of rest after a busy training schedule. There have been some earthquakes, but everything is OK, I just thought I was dizzy. Here in Oaxaca there is civil unrest and the other night again, someone was killed. We are staying near the Zocalo (square) where the people are camped and protesting, but we foreigners are safe. On Friday night we went to a guitar recital, classical, Scarlatti and then
various classical Spanish composers, sitting in a beautiful rendered adobe enclosure, minimalist construction, beautiful lines, cream walls, one very low wide arch lit behind the guitarist, the sky above open and blue, going to dark and stars as the performance went on, in the background outside our place, some streets away voices, shouting and police sirens, then quiet and then again. It is quite strange and I was glad it was not a communist war and we were not the burgeoise sitting in a cultural event fearing for our safety.

I also struggle with imperialist travel attitudes and on occasion have achieved a more equitable travel style catching the metro (train), local buses and some little VW taxis is at least a concession to this, even in spite of the robbery. Unless you take the transport of the people of the country occasionally, then you cannot appreciate the crowds, the faces of people travelling to work, the grumpy, intolerant bus conductors, the friendliness of local men and women struggling with shopping bags, the diversity of social status and the ability to notice how these impact on peoples behaviour.

If I do the total turista trip I will have missed the country. Today I was at a market and would have stayed longer if possible, it was a local food and shopping market and there are so many small men, women and children coming from outlying villages to buy food and odds and ends. The women are small, brown skinned, often with bandy legs and a kind of swaying kind of walk, their hair braided in two plaits with coloured ribbons braided in, sometimes wound to the top of their head, sometimes haning to their waist. They wear colourful colours, hot pink, bright blue, reds, yellows and all kinds of embroideries on their blouses and shawls. They dress according to region and there are such an amazing array of local dress.
I was happy to be having chats with stall holders in spanish when buying bits
and pieces.

I have been to some amazing places and need time to be quiet and take it in, feeling full up of impressions. One place yesterday, ancient, so still, quiet, such dignified energy. I did not really want to leave, eagles soaring, birds hopping about entrances to tombs, no tourists except us, no guides, not much man made except the amazing edifices. An old old world. Pictures to follow

Waiting for a bus after ours broke down and the steep winding mountain road to Oaxaca

2006-08-20T14:01:00.000-07:00

At the Catedral de Virgen de Guadalupe and Teotihuacan

2006-08-20T13:57:00.000-07:00

Teotihuacan - North of Mexico City

2006-08-18T16:23:00.000-07:00

I spent a day on a tour around Mexico City beginning at a place called Tlatlolco, an old market meeting place for pre-hispanic peoples and on the pathway of the old walkways and paths and river systems now covered over with concrete and buildings. The Franciscans built a church near this place, a tall but plain edifice which in effect dominates the lower lying structures of the ancient monuments. The plaza more recently constructed and used for a meeting of 200,000 people, many of them students in 1968 seems to share a history of bloodshed with the ancient monuments nearby, but on a much larger and less ceremonial scale.

Next to the Catedral of the Virgen de Guadalupe, where a man saw a vision of the virgin and she is more or less the patron saint of Mexico and this place is where many people make pilgrimage to. It was filled with people from all parts, judging by their clothing.

Our guide Monica provided an account of how catholicism engaged the indigenous peoples' interest by various means, symbols and instruction and gradually displaced the older beliefs by incorporating some of their meanings such as the flower insignia on the robes of the virgin which is the ancient symbol of the 4 elements with the birth of humanity in the centre.
In spite of this a candle from FDB's in Ocean Shores was offered as a votive at the shrine and the mother earth invoked in whatever form she manifests.

We then went to the site of Teotihuacan and spent the afternoon walking around this site, climbing to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun and the Moon and joining with others in delighted breathlessness as we all made it to the top.

Walking along the extensive site and looking back to the afternoon storm clouds and a bolt of lightning descened from the sky to the pyramid and feeling the elements and the soaking rain and the presence of the ancestors.

Drank pulque, mezcal and tequila and saw how it is taken from the centre of the maguey cactus and fermented.

oops photos from Venice Beach Los Angeles

2006-08-13T22:04:00.000-07:00

Wrong order but here they are

Mexico City and surrounds

2006-08-13T21:54:00.000-07:00

In Mexico City, had an exciting introduction getting my wallet taken on the crowded train in the first hours in Mexico, visiting the studios of Fridha Kahlo and Diego Rivera, going to sacred places and I will write more and post more pictures soon.

Los Angeles and Mexico City

2006-08-10T20:50:00.000-07:00

Arrived in Los Angeles exactly the same day and minute I left Brisbane. Went by bus to Venice Beach, 8 or 10kms south of the airport and the site of a short film Life Not Death in Venice, by one of the cultural anthropologists who strongly influenced narrative practices. I could not recognise the building from the film but the beach and the paths were familiar. The ocean was beautiful and the light golden as I watched the setting sun and the buildings began to shine and their colours brighten. It is such a friendly place, a cool looking black hip hop dude with scarf and cap, smooth black skin and dark almond shaped eyes tried to sell me a CD, when I said I did not want to buy any music today he looked me in the eyes and paused for a while and then said 'thank you for talking to me'. It was a soft moment.

Sat around and chatted with a few different people, Andreas, a Mexican away from his homeland running a little cantina was pleased with my attempt to speak spanish and would not let me pay for my coffee.

Met up with a couple from the US and we went for drinks and back to the airport. A short flight to Mexico City arriving before dawn, plenty of practice with espanol. Caught a train and was robbed of my wallet with all the cards, a tired and silly early morning, not thinking, dreamy state and a huge crush of people on the metro, not a good experience but a good learning one. Everything now OK and had other secure money elsewhere, the person had a good spending spree in the hour or two before I got through to report it lost.

Mexico City is interesting and today I went to Frida Kahlo and Diego Riveras' studios in San Angel. I could hardly bear the mixture of excitement, emotion and calm from being in such an exquisite building, the space, openess, proportions, light, the curves and straight lines, it was something else. It was not a place which held their works but their collections, pre hispanic ceramic figures and other sculptures by Carlos Bracho. The garden was a mass of cacti, the tall cereus peruvianus types forming a fence like structure outside,and a lovely backdrop for the fleshier, fatter rounder types. Even the gate is beautiful.

Tomorrow I go toTeotihuacan pyramids, to take a candle from FDB's Ocean Shores to the shrine of the Virgen de Guadalupe, and a few other city sights before leaving for Oaxaca on Saturday.

I will post more photos when I can access the computers with the program for loading photos. Tomorrow more adventures. Hasta lluego amigos Deidre

Still Leaving Home.....

2006-08-06T18:59:00.000-07:00

Hamishs' farewell to LA and some work mates being cheeky for the new camera.

Leaving Home

2006-08-05T01:15:00.001-07:00

Going away, doing new things, travelling or having adventures means so much when I feel so supported by home, friends, family, workmates, wildlife, the land and sea. Here are some photos of those who contribute to my sense of belonging and help me to forge into unknown territories.

Walking out the door maybe my reptile friend has come to say goodbye, I wonder if he is the same tiny one rescued from being eaten by birds in the bush, and given to me to caretake. He only lasted a few hours in the house I made him from a cardboard box with cut-out windows and doors and plastic lids with water and mealy worms to eat. He found his freedom and I wonder if he has come back to show me how grown up he has become and wish me well in strange lands like he must have encountered when he came to my place.